P1 Development
After receiving the 2017 Brooklyn Shoe School Scholarship, I set out to design a standout shoe that would push their skills and teach them as many shoemaking techniques as possible within one week. The complex, multi-panel upper challenged their pattern-making abilities and became the foundation for what would evolve into their signature design.
Initially, five colorways were developed, with the final choice being the “Martian” version, featuring a bold rear panel. The fast-paced class taught critical skills like pattern drafting, upper construction, and creating a stacked EVA-leather sole. Despite some construction flaws, the finished shoe marked a major milestone in their development.
Later refinements were made using an Air Jordan 1 last and a rubber cupsole, prompting numerous design and construction improvements—including panel simplification, revised seam lines, cleaner stitching, and improved transitions between materials. For the second prototype, dubbed the “Polychrome” in the Varsity colorway, sourcing materials in small quantities remained a challenge. Though only the upper was completed due to an unfinished sole, this iteration represented their most technically advanced project yet, completed independently without professional guidance.
Although satisfied with the progress and improved craftsmanship, I critically evaluated the latest shoe sample and identified numerous areas for refinement. Using detailed physical markups and journal notes, I prepared for the next version. A new set of rubber soles required switching from a Jordan-style last to a Vans-style one. To streamline development, I began maintaining a detailed spec sheet and created a quick render for potential future colorways.
The next sample, designed for my brother using his suggested colorway, showed significant improvement in shape and construction—despite minor issues with stitching, topline structure, and sidewall finishing. Added retail-focused touches like packaging and extra laces elevated the presentation. Looking ahead, I aim to improve heel proportions, construction details, and add branding, with the top priority being sourcing a better-fitting last with improved toe shape.
The biggest change from V4 to V5 was refining the last shape—V4's was too bulky with a tall toe box, so I collaborated with Springline to develop a sleeker last that better matched my design vision. With the new last in place, I adjusted the pattern by refining the eyestay, tweaking the tongue shape, modifying stitching angles, and incorporating a blind seam on the mudguard. While the overall design stayed consistent, the new last dramatically improved the shoe's look. I also upgraded the collar foam for added comfort. The making process, which I had documented on video, went smoothly and captured the highs and lows of building shoes by hand.
After finishing the V5 sample, I wore it for testing and found it a significant improvement, but still not quite ready for release. V6 brought only small changes—perforation tweaks, an updated eyestay, and a few construction refinements—but the real focus was on experimentation. I created four half-pairs using different colorways and materials, even testing out sole dyeing for the first time. The results varied, but they added a new layer of depth to the designs.
This is it—after more than six rounds of development, the V7 sample marks the culmination of all that hard work. I finally sourced the perfect sole that I could buy in manageable quantities and even added a laser-engraved logo. This kicked off the most critical round of development yet. Since my design is based on the sole, I worked with a supplier in Mexico to create a last that, while not as sleek as V5–V6, had the right style and a more comfortable, wider toe box. I kept the design elements from V6 but extended the eyestays to the top of the collar, which gave the shoe a more polished, professional look. Patternmaking and construction came naturally by this point—I’d made so many samples, I could do it in my sleep. Despite using only leftover materials for the colorway, I loved the result and may offer it in the future.
With the V7 sample complete, I'm ready to move into production. The next steps are digitizing and grading the pattern, sourcing materials in bulk, and shifting focus toward branding and marketing. We're almost there!
